Upper Mustang Lodge Trek

Today we discover the highlights of Katmandu and the valley. We adapt the program to your interests and desires and what you have seen before. Usually, we go to Pasupatinath on the bank of the Bagmati River, where the most important Hindu temples and burning ghats of Nepal are situated. In Bouddhanath we circumbulate together with Tibetan and Nepali Buddhist pilgrims the whitewashed stupa. Our sightseeing usually ends in Patan, the city of Beauty, an astonishing center of fine art and Buddhist and Hindu culture.

Morning flight to Pokhara, the largest town in central Nepal, which is known for its lake Phewa tal and spectacular panorama over the Annapurna peaks.

The flight departs for Jomsom passing Machhapuchhare and Dhaulagiri and winding up the Kali Gandaki valley to land uneventfully at a small airstrip. Approximately three hours are required to arrange the horses, sort out the loads, and complete arrangements with the police checkpoint. The trek begins by crossing the blue suspension bridge into the older part of Jomsom and then, leaving Jomsom (2 700 m) behind, proceeding up the Kali Gandaki gorge to Eklobhatti where there are a few lodges. The wind is gusting, and lunch is inside one of the lodge where such treats as Snickers and other confections including beer are available. From Eklobhatti the trail to Jharkot rises rather steeply from the river bed then more gently to a ridge and subsequently through the small village of Khingar to the camp at Jharkot (3 342 m). Many Indian pilgrims en route to Muktinath are passed on the trail, some displaying difficulty with the altitude.

The trail from Jharkot to Muktinath is a fairly unrelenting climb which affords increasingly better views of Dhaulagiri and the village of Jharkot. A short climb above the village of Muktinath (3 654 m) is the object of the pilgrim’s journey – a small Hindu temple behind a semicircular arrangement of cow heads on a brick wall, each with flowing water. Legend has it that Vishnu lived in Muktinath and prayed at this spot, thus the veneration of it. In the same complex are multiple chortens and a small monastery as well as a Buddhist temple in which there is a flame fed by natural gas seeping from the rocks. The odor of the gas is inescapable. The trail is re-traced to Jharkot and through Khingar to a side trail which descends sharply to Kagbeni (2 820 m) for dinner and camp.

At the north limit of Kagbeni is the police checkpoint through which there are beautiful views of Kagbeni with Nilgiri as a backdrop. The trail climbs and descends along the east bank of the Kali Gandaki. One passes the canyon of the Lungpa Khola on the west bank. Finally, the trail crosses a plateau with sparse scrubby bushes, and the fields of Tangbe can be seen. After a very sharp descent on mostly small loose rocks and gravel and crossing the canyon of the Tengbe Khola, the path climbs gently to Tangbe (2 880 m) and lunch (7 km). The walk on to Chuksang (2 922 m) is 1,5 h on an undulating trail, sometimes steep, with distant views of Tsele perched high on a cliff above the Kali Gandaki which is now in a canyon with great red stone walls. Chuksang is situated at the junction of the Kali Gandaki and the Narsing Khola (river). On the opposite side of the canyon from the village one may see red peppers being ground into large bundles in mortars. The peppers are then carried by the women to enclosures where the ground is smooth. The heads of grain are then removed from the stalks by pulling them and spreading them out on the ground in the sun to dry. Chang is available locally, and the local “hotel” has a kitchen with the typical stove of Mustang, a three-tiered sort of affair in which dung is burned in a roaring fire that provides plenty of heat for cooking. It should be noted that the villages of Tangbe and Chuksang, along with Gyakar, Tsele, and Tetang, are inhabited by people of a cultural group referred to as Gerunds. Also, the Gomba Kang at Tangbe is of the Nyingmapa sect, as opposed to most monasteries in upper Mustang.

A short walk through the river bed brings one to a metal bridge across the Kali Gandaki at a point where a massive boulder has fallen from the cliffs above and now leans against the cliff to form a tunnel through which the river flows. After crossing the bridge the trail almost immediately climbs very steeply via a rocky gully to Tsele. From Tsele one begins an unrelenting climb along a deep canyon across from the village of Gyagar which is encircled by a very long wall of packed earth. The trail is often hewn out of the canyon wall, and at each turn of the trail one sees the trail continuing along the precipice ever upward. After the canyon the trail climbs more gently to an unnamed pass (3 264 m) from which one sees the very pleasant village of Samar at approximately the same elevation, an excellent spot for lunch. From the pass at the northern edge of Samar the trail sharply descends and then ascends twice before the next pass, Beza La (3 684 m). Continuing down and then up, sharply at first, one arrives at teahouse, Yamdo (3 738 m), for camp. A nearby stream provides water for bathing and clothes washing if one can stand the cold water. From this spot there is a panoramic view of the Annapurna Himal with its rapidly changing cloud patterns and sometimes spectacular sunrise. The vegetation in this area is more ‘lush’ with many junipers which have been, unfortunately overcut and in some areas burned.

From Yamdo it is a gentle climb to the first pass of the day, Yanda La (3 729 m). From a small knob at the side of the pass a 360-degree panorama of the surrounding area can be seen. A gentle and then sharp descent to a fairly level stretch of trail brings one to Syanmochen (3 540 m). This village consists of a very few stone houses where one may be able to see rakshi being made. Just before reaching the village of a Syangmochen you will see a side trail that descends to Rangbuyng, a cave with self-emanating statues of Guru Rimpche and Pasmasambhava. Then a short, steep climb brings one to a plateau region where, passing round a chorten, one can see the village of Geling to the right. The trail then proceeds at first gently down (opposite Geling) with two drops into small canyons and then continues on a gentle ascent toward Nyi La to a hotel and lunch site at Chungkar (3 510 m). From Chungkar the trail passes a chorten and climbs gently and then more steeply directly to Nyi La (3 816 m). It descends sharply at first, then more gently then steeply into the village of Ghemi (3 432 m). The locals have a great interest in tourists and immediately amuse themselves in a friendly fashion into the proceedings of setting up camp and into finding out what strange things the round-eyed people may have brought here with them. The local gomba has friendly monks, and one can visit without charge and take photos. For some festivals a sand mandala is made on the floor of the gomba. There you will see a spectacularly colorful design done by hand from brilliant colored sands. When the festival is concluded, the mandala is swept up, and the sand is ceremoniously placed into the river.

The village of Ghemi is built, as many of the villages in Mustang, on the steep edge of a canyon, and the trail to Tsarang goes down steeply to cross a stream via a suspension bridge. There is also at this point an older wooden bridge. Crossing this canyon one passes chortens and mani stones to arrive on the opposite side where the longest mani wall in Nepal is located. From the mani wall (remember to pass so that it remains to your right) the trail is an unrelenting climb to a pass at approximately 3 720 m. A nearby knob (3 801 m) offers an absolutely magnificent 360-degree panorama from which one can see Trahmar and its associated red cliffs, spectacular colors in other rocks, distant snow-capped peaks of the Annapurna Himal (including Annapurna, Fang and Nilgiri), and the rugged canyon country. One descends gently from the pass past a large door chorten into a wide, beautiful entry avenue into the village of Tsarang (3 426 m), probably the most beautiful village one visits on this trek. The first views of the village demonstrate the prominent sights of the gomba and the ruins of the old fort. From the village there are lovely views of the surrounding countryside. A charge of RS 100 is made at the local gomba and photos are not allowed. A small hydroelectric plant supplies current for dim lighting in the evening.

As with Ghemi, Tsarang is situated on the edge of a beautiful canyon with its associated steep descent and ascent. From the opposite side of the canyon are gorgeous views of the village perched on the edge with the backdrop of nearby hills and distant snow peaks. From the canyon the trail generally follows a gentle but unrelenting climb with increasingly beautiful views of the mountains to the south past an isolated chorten at approximately 3 570 m and past numerous caves in the adjacent cliffs to a window in a pass (3 816 m) which offers the first views of Lo Manthang. Its setting on the Plain of Aspiration with its irrigated green fields is in sharp contrast to the colorful, rugged cliffs and hills surrounding it. Lo Manthang (3 690 m) is a walled city of 845 people and livestock wintering in Pokhara and Kathmandu. It contains the Royal Palace of the King of Mustang who still has serfs which attend his land and livestock. The king is the only person allowed to ride through the single city gate- all others must walk. There are three interesting gombas in Lo Manthang – all showing the effects of centuries of neglect. One contains masks which are used in festivals. At present the government has, for unexplained reasons, closed the valleys to the east and west of Lo Manthang, severely limiting the sightseeing in this region.

This day is spent visiting the gombas and leisurely exploring the city of Lo Manthang – narrow alleyways, a school just outside the gates, the top of the wall, or a horseback ride for panoramic views of Lo Manthang.

The trail from Lo Manthang steadily climbs to a pass (4 032 m) marked, as most, by a cairn. From here ones gets the last glimpse of Lo Manthang. The trail then curves right and up a long, desolate valley with good mountain views past abandoned fields and a few ruins. One then has a steep climb across a ridge (4 134 m), the highest point of the trek, to a good lunch spot that could be windy. The trail then descends and undulates past two valleys with a sharp descent into a canyon with a rapidly flowing stream with a new wooden bridge. A short climb from the bridge brings one to Lo Gekar (3 822 m) where there is a lovely grassy area for camping, the gomba, and a teahouse. Colorful prayer wheels line one side of the gomba, and there are many chortens about with snowy peaks for a backdrop. The village of Marang can be seen down valley. There is a charge of RS 100 to enter the gomba, and no photographs are allowed. This gomba has fairly unique pained carved stones in frames.

After the trail climbs sometimes steeply across a crest and then a to a pass at 3 960 m, it begins a particularly scenic descent with snow peaks in the distance- gentle at first, and then steeply down a spectacularly eroded gully – to the village of Trahmar (Red Crag) set against the deep red cliffs seen from a distance on the trail from Ghemi to Tsarang. Many caves can be seen in the cliffs. The trail ascends gently from trahmar past fields where people are working. After that it turns toward Ghemi, one sees another trail up from Ghemi and the long mani wall – is much more impressive from this angle. The trail then descends sharply from a cairn-marked ridge to the canyon beside Ghemi and then sharply up into the village itself. The main trail to Jomsom is rejoined at Ghemi.

We continue the same way to Samar and Kagbeni.

This day is given to recuperating at a hotel in Jomsom in the afternoon. Marpha brandy is particularly good. The porters, guides, and kitchen boys are served dinner along with the trekkers, and a party follows with much dancing and music.

Short morningflight from Jomson to Pokhara.

The trip concludes with a return flight to Kathmandu.

On this last free day you have plenty of opportunity to enjoy more sights in Kathmandu: you can make a daytrip to the splendid five storied Nyatapola Temple and exquisite woodcarvings like the Peacock window in medieval Bhaktapur, climb the long stairs to the stupa of Swayambhunath (Monkeytemple) or visit the sleeping Vishnu at Budhanilkantha. You can also shop, relax and drink coffee in the bakeries of Thamel or the Garden of Dreams. Traveltimes Treks recommends you plan one extra day at the end of your trekking in case in case of delayed schedules during your travel.

Transfer to Tribhuvan Airport – We hope you enjoyed your stay!

Extra days:
If you wish to stay longer in Nepal: Traveltimes Treks can offer you plenty of suggestions, we can arrange rafting and safari trips, helicopter flights, mountain biking, multi day tours to old historical city of Bhaktapur, the mountain stations Nagarkot & Dhulikhel or retreats in the serene monasteries of Namobuddha and Kopan.